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I used stainless round rod for my grates, it does flow more than the stock grate. This is from my stomp grate so the gap is wider, fixed grates were closer like the stock grate and worked well and very tough. On fixed grates I can make them as close or open as desired.
Yes, round ribs made of stronger material will increase the total opening surface. Also inward curved or slanted grate would additionally increase working surface and therefore reduce resistance. And an added benefit is that the part that is recessed does not need to be as strong. I wish I had skills and equipment to fab something like that.
So that means a grate re-design if that happens. In a grate,  you must maintain the distance between the ribs but can we reduce the width of each individual rib keeping them spaced out the same which would result in more ribs but much thinner.  Do thinner ribs cavitate(form cavities of bubbles) less than thicker ribs?  Is round better, square?  Would the gains be cancelled out by the extra few ribs you would have to add to make the spacing between them the same to keep the impeller safe?  It would have to be stainless steel because thin aluminum would bend easy. 
I believe a cross-section that is round reduced cavitation. Peter from Russia experimented with this and somewhere in the old threads on this forum is that info. I thought he gained a mile an hour or so by changing the design. Maybe somebody else can remember the details. It makes sense that water is going to flow around a smoother surface easier, and that would reduce cavitation.
Mokai ES-Kape 2.0 / Re: Fuel Delivery
« Last post by Mokai Dreamin' on October 12, 2019, 02:29:32 AM »
 Well, there may be something to revisiting the old ratios now that the fuel issue is solved.
 The data in my last message was based solely on  the stock fuel supply, and that variable has been changed. If you could keep the engine RPM over 4000 and use a 6, 10 or 20% ratio, then  you would most definitely increase speed.

Mokai may have to go to some kind of a belt tensioner though, as there is a finite amount of gear sprocket pulleys available, and it's impossible with the stock set up to maintain the  right belt tension without some kind of a tensioner.

I've already rigged up a little system myself, but have not tested it as I ran out of time.  I am confident that with Rick's perfectionistic personality,  he will exhaust  every conceivable option. So,  he's the right person for the job. Too bad  for the customers who purchased the boat before these issues got resolved though. I really think Mokai should be compensating the original users, but happy to see they are on the case at least.
Chat / Fun Buggy RC Project with old Mokai Parts
« Last post by Painlesstom on October 11, 2019, 11:59:39 PM »
As many of you know I'm pretty deep into the RC hobby, primarily large scale aircraft. I grew up racing RC trucks etc... and here lately I've been wanting to find something to put some old ES-kape steering servos and an old EX21 I've pieced together from several junk motors. Browsing Facebook marketplace a while back I found an old Polaris 4x4 ATV for $80 and the flame was lit. For those of you who find this kind of thing interesting, enjoy.  >:D

<a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HumeLlnGqxE" target="_blank">http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HumeLlnGqxE</a>

<a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hPPCbdpIzNE" target="_blank">http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hPPCbdpIzNE</a>

<a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-AfqgkeQU6s" target="_blank">http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-AfqgkeQU6s</a>

<a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mYMS9IAm3t4" target="_blank">http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mYMS9IAm3t4</a>

<a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VXB00qvMCGY" target="_blank">http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VXB00qvMCGY</a>

<a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0-qXGh65Ryw" target="_blank">http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0-qXGh65Ryw</a>

<a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UPp2JiAuyxE" target="_blank">http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UPp2JiAuyxE</a>
Chat / Re: New owner!
« Last post by Craig5251 on October 11, 2019, 10:59:33 PM »
Thatís how Iím planning it. Itís all weather permitting of course, and little to no wind. Iíll know for sure later next week.
washer spacers on the mounting bracket may help align that.  I might be talking out my butt but i had figured that i would need to use spacer to lock it in to alignment.  horizontal alignment is easy with washers.  Vertical alignment would not be so easy.  I think you have to be within 1% with shaft to shaft connections.  A clutch probably buys you a little more.
That makes sense so increase the rpm to 4600-4800 and your boat should have planed at 170.  then you get the free few miles per hour.  sound like you needed only a bit more.  At 210 though it's going to probably need the whole 5K.  When this is over in the next few weeks we'll all know.
I liked the pin mounting design, but with no means to adjust for alignment issues, it left much to be desired. The lock has also been known to come undone, it's happen to mine a few times and I've seen others clipping D-Rings in the lock slot to prevent it from backing out. Glad to hear the mounting brackets look like they will be pretty much a bolt on deal, surprised to hear that too. Lucky for you!
Motor mount bolt holes appear the same for 206 and subaru.  103.2 mm center to center sidecover bolts.  Will need some spacers between the bolt hole and the bracket to move the bracket 1/4 inch away from the hole to clear the side cover contour.  The Subaru side cover is flat in comparison.  Looks like exhaust next with the kholer muffler and mounting and braces.  All i was ever worried about was the mounting holes.  If i couldn't grab the engine by the side i would lose the engine guiding into position for lock that the side mounts provide. 

So my first step involving the motor mounts showed me how clever they are and how they allow the engine to smoothly slide back into position and lock.  I don't think the motor could have been mounted any better than they did it.  It is almost effortless to slide it back into the pin holes with the mounts riding along the bottom rails.

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