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Improving Your Mokai

Shop Talk => Mokai ES-Kape 2.0 => Topic started by: Mokai Dreamin' on July 19, 2019, 12:39:47 AM

Title: 2.0 Review
Post by: Mokai Dreamin' on July 19, 2019, 12:39:47 AM
Hello folks:

I decided to go ahead and purchase the ES-Kape 2.0. While I know this boat isn't for everyone, for my style of boating and conditions, I think it's going to work fine. I previously owned the Stik boat, and then also owned a 2006 Mokai  with honda engine, which was converted over to a Subaru ES. So, with that said I can compare and contrast a bit .So far I just have a few hours on this boat, so still working out the kinks.

This is the first time owning an ES-Kape model for me. I love, love the three-piece design.  To be able to stand the cockpit area up on end in the garage is really nice. I put the engine section on one of my creepers, and can maneuver that around. The bow section weighs next to nothing.  It was really nice while creating some custom bunks, as I could just put the cockpit section only up on the trailer and make subtle adjustments, and then move again, test, etc. I can also say the three-piece hull is  going be really nice over the long winters here to make some custom modifications as the whole boat can be brought into my basement. How many boats can you say that about!  I do plan on leaving it on the trailer most of the time however. I still think it's heavy enough that it's not practical to put in the back of a pickup or something, particularly with the Kohler engine.

Changes from the ES-Kape 1, based on what I've read:

The center cockpit section now has a very substantial handle that is attached to the mounting plate (bow to cockpit) and that fits inside the bow section when attached. There is a hole at the top of the bow section for access, and the bow section is now secured with a  spring-loaded bolt.  This is now where you secure the boat, tie your bow line, etc. No chance of breaking anymore. Mokai also went back to a webbing strap and rubber handle at the very front. No more plastic.

Instead of four pins and two bolts for the cockpit to engine compartment attachment, there are now a combination of 4 pins and bolts. The bolt goes through the center of the pin, so it now serves dual function.

The opening for the cockpit is now larger, which I'm sure some people are not going to like.  The harmony kayak console essentially fits inside, instead of over the opening now for comparison. New cover is really nice, nice fabric and fit. Well done.

Flotation behind the seat is gone, and they ran it along the length of the cockpit.  While one side is used up by the fire extinguisher, the other side makes a nice tray.  I did find in use however a lot of stuff slides out of it, but better than nothing.

I think that's the extent of the upgrades to the hull. Mokai did add some aluminum rails on the side of the engine compartment to help with water spray, but honestly I'm not sure they really do anything or not as they are pretty small.  I would love to get a set of trim tabs from Neily, but I'm not sure if he's around anymore. I emailed him a few times with no response. Anyone know if you can still buy the trim tabs?


The manual puts the engine at 67 pounds, but not sure if that includes the clutch or not.  Next time I have it out of the boat I'll put it on a scale. It's a beast for sure!  Speaking of clutches, it operates a bit more abruptly than Tom's, but pretty sure that's because of the governor.  I think when it first engages, the governor tries to compensate for the load and “jerks” the boat due to a sudden increase of power--I sure don't like it.  It has the same ringing as Tom's, pretty much the same as best I can tell.

The engine pulley size is 3 inches, and the smaller gear pulley is 2.5 inches. So, at the stock 3650 RPM, it's spinning the impeller at 4380 rpm.  This is theoretical, there is definitely some loss in the gearbox due to friction.  I'm hoping that if the governor is removed, the rpm's will shoot up to 4000 or better, and that would push the impeller to 4800 rpm. This gearbox and ratio is one of the more exciting parts of the boat to me. You've got some real potential for performance gains. It may be possible to change the smaller gear as well to spin the impeller even faster.  It's a question of torque and horsepower. I think the Kohler stock torque ratio is 13.5 foot-pounds, so for the math wizards out there you can play with the numbers.  Kohler's rating for horsepower is at 4000 rpm I believe.

The pulley belt is a timing belt for a motorcycle I believe. So, much more robust than I thought it would be. I guess it's possible to skip or tear a tooth, but I think under normal circumstances that's not going to happen.  The engine mounts are totally adjustable, so if somebody wanted to change the gear pulley diameter, there is room there to readjust the tension. Of course you could also change the length of the belt too. I have no intention of messing around with gear pulleys and ratios, but if Tom ever gets his hands on one of these I bet he will! Overall, the engine mounting is very nice, and no messing with pins that are too large for the hole, or cam levers than can come loose. This has a spring loaded bolt. It's a bit tight to access, but easier if you remove the battery, which is just held in with a bungee.

The battery I think is the same one they used in the version 1. It is a lithium iron phosphate rated at about 7-8 amp hours. Weights a measly 19 ounces. Surprising to me that Mokai put a hundred dollar battery in this thing, but it does help considerably with the weight. They are light enough a person could bring a spare.

So, speeds and numbers, drumroll please. My first outing was very discouraging. Between the engine and the 20+ pound gas tank full, the thing has too much weight in the back. I've never seen the bow on a Mokai go so high! The Stern was actually digging into the water and creating a braking effect. Horrible! I saw about 12 miles an hour upstream, and then briefly 16 miles an hour downstream, which dropped to 15, then 14. I'd say the wind was pretty much taken out of my sail.  For reference I'm around 200 pounds. I came back home with tail between my legs, and contemplated what might help.

My solution was to take the gas tank and move it up to the front of the cockpit section. Took nearly 9 feet of gas line, but had to get that weight out of the back. It seems the difference between this boat, and previous models is right around 20 pounds. Shifting the gas tank to up behind the seat didn't really do much for weight distribution. I used Motion Pro dual valve shut off valves to break the gas line fwiw. Available on ebay, and Amazon.

So, I took another run last night and huge difference! I got about 15-16 miles an hour upstream, and about 19 miles an hour down. Bow came way down. For somebody in the 150 or 160lb range I could see getting 22 or 23 mph downstream. This was at the stock 3650 rpm, which incidentally drops to about 3400 or so after a few miles. I also removed the pull starter to help with airflow. I think if the governor was removed, the rpm's could be brought up close to 4000, the boat would definitely do better.

Joystick: I found the more I slowed down, the more difficult the boat was to maneuver. This problem is not unique to the 2.0 version, but rather a problem of the sensitivity of the joystick combined with a governor.  I just don't think a governor belongs on a boat, and definitely not with a sensitive joystick!  This is not a snowblower afterall! I  will be removing very soon, just need to check one thing with Tom. 

My 2nd run was much smoother, but it takes time to gain a feel for the controls. I can also say that compared to something like the Stik boat, this is much smoother. The Stik also has a joy stick, but separate trigger for throttle. Overall, the Mokai is still easier to operate.  At about 8 to 10 miles an hour I could pretty easily maneuver the boat. I just cupped the entire joystick with my hand, and found it was not too difficult to get fine detail of movement. It's just the slower you go the more difficult it becomes. Short of Tom’s manual control, I think something like a go cart steering wheel, and separate throttle control could work. It would allow a person to make the subtle adjustments needed. 

I can definitely appreciate where Tom was coming from if you're trying to move the boat at 2 or 3 miles an hour in tight spaces. I think it would try your patience real fast. No idea how long the servos will hold up, but they are very smooth in this model without hesitation.
The joystick box is made out of one piece of aluminum, and the CNC machining is pristine. The machining is so well done it creates a watertight seal on one side without gasket. Hats off to Mokai on the precision of this thing. I did take it apart to peek inside, and the solder joints are top-notch. Wire gauge is nice and heavy, which is a lot more than I can say about the Stik boat I previously owned that had 22-24 gauge wire. The rubber seal around the joystick handle is not likely to leak the way they have it designed. Rubber is heavy.  I can also say the fact that it's removable and further inside the cockpit tends to keep the water off of it as well.  Speaking of the CNC parts, just about all of them are really well done. The attention to the details on the small parts is admirable. Mokai is now making over 80 parts themselves to my understanding.

They are also doing 3-D printing or manufacturing, and I think it's more the nature of plastic than it is the process that leads to more errors here.  A good example of that is the wear ring.  When I was first putting the boat together I spun the gearbox by hand, no problem-- pretty smooth. I then installed the pump and it spun about halfway and then I could feel it bind. I thought maybe it was new bearings, but really they should spin pretty freely, with only a little resistance. When I actually got the engine in later, smoke poured out of the pump the first time I revved up the engine!

I pulled the pump, and the wear ring came with it, and was lodged onto the impeller. WTF Mokai!! Since the impeller is created on a CNC, I'm assuming it's perfectly round. I think it would be hard to make it out of round. The wear ring, on the other hand, could be made thicker or thinner in places. It's a good 32nd of an inch out of round, if not more. To make matters worse it's a loose fit in the housing, I noticed on my 2nd run it shifted positions, and the impeller carved even more plastic out. Needless to say I'll be purchasing one of Tom's aluminum wear rings a.s.a.p. This plastic wear ring is absolute junk, and embarrassing they would send something like this out the door.

Other quality control issues:  the lid for the air intake is probably molded in one piece, and then they make the cut out after the fact for the air opening. It looked to me like somebody took a hole saw in the corners and went too far. The saw gouged the finished plastic, and the cut out looks like it was done with the pocketknife.  I've already emailed Marie, and told her I wanted a new one sent to me. This is outrageous to me.  Absolutely horrible workmanship compared to the pristine CNC work. I can also say that the alignment of the bow to the cockpit is a good 1/8" off. This doesn't even contact the water, so it's an aesthetic thing, but it would be nice if they took a little more pride in their craftsmanship, and made the parts fit and finish better.

The engine vibrates the heck out of the seat, and the person sitting in it. I literally could not focus, as my head was vibrating. Yes, I did say literally. Very unsettling to have your world/vision vibrating! OMG. Either rubber pads or thicker cushion is needed to reduce that vibration. Horrible!

So, going to try a piece of gel foam next run, before I buy a new seat.  A piece of gel foam may absorb the vibration, not sure. By the way, the seat is hard molded plastic with a pretty thin, maybe 3/8" foam rubber over top. I believe Mokai makes the mold and hinge portion, and then probably contracts to have the seat covers made. Hinges are made out of aluminum, so very nice quality, but if you don't want your brain vibrated out of your head, you'll have to do something to control the vibration. I cannot imagine doing a long trip like that. Ugh!

To really get all the performance out of the boat it's capable of is going to take some ingenuity. Not really sure how to cool and keep the engine cool. It looks like it suffers the same 200-300 rpm drop of other models. The Plenum cannot be made deeper, but I do see room to make it longer. If it is made longer than the air intake opening in the hood would have to be enlarged, and new seal created. This would mean custom fabricating a new top or at least hood. May be a good project for a 3D printer.

I think most of the heat from the muffler is going outside of the engine compartment, as it feels like a blast furnace behind you. It's really cooks. A heat shield is going to be needed back there, not only to direct some heat away from you, but to keep some of the water from coming up. And yes, the engine compartment does take on a lot of water. I don't think it's going to be too hard to design a hood, and something I'll be working on.

I'd really like to get my hands on some trim tabs as mentioned, so if anyone knows of a source please, please let me know. Really need to increase the displacement to get the stern out of the water as much as possible. Moving the gas tank was huge, but it could use more, and I think trim tabs may be the ticket. IMO, the max weight for the stern section is right about 65-70lbs. Mokai went over this by 20lbs, but did nothing to increase displacement--really bad move! With where the driver is, the weight distribution doesn't work. The boat is simply TOO HEAVY as supplied. YOU'VE GOT TO CHANGE THE WEIGHT DISTRIBUTION IN THIS BOAT OR  PERFORMANCE WILL SUFFER! Ignore this and you will be disappointed big time.

Second option would be to separate the pump, which is now two-piece, and insert a shim or wedge there to trim the boat. High end jet boats have this feature. My guess is it would take 5 to 7 mm wedge to work. Easy CNC project Mokai could do.  The linkage would also have to be changed to compensate for the angle, but it would bring the bow down and that is very much needed. I have to wonder if Mokai actually tested this thing in the water? 

Other changes:  Grate openings appear to be a bit larger, and there is no longer a flared section to the grate. It's now and even width. Mokai is now using a couple retaining cotter pin ( similar to what Tom uses in his windshields ) to hold the engine lid down. They could benefit from some chain or nylon so you don't lose them. Seem to work fine though.

So, to wrap up the review here is what I think is going to be needed with this new model. I'm sure once Tom gets his hands on one he will have far greater insight as to the exact changes that can be made.

Governor needs to be removed for better slow speed performance, and higher top end rpm. If the RPMs could be brought up to 4100, you could get nearly 5000 rpm at the impeller, so there's a lot of hidden power here.

Weight distribution needs to be changed, and something added to increase displacement, along with a method to possibly trim the boat to bring the bow down Stock boat is TOO HEAVY at the stern for stock engine compartment size.

Muffler heat shield/water protection needed. Boat takes on a LOT of water.

Extra cushion or new seat needed to reduce vibration and comfort.  Stock seat vibrates your brains out of your head!

I think if the governor was removed,  you might be able to get good enough slow speed performance from the joystick, but there's a learning curve. After only two outings I got a whole lot better, and I'm sure the more I take the boat out the more  comfortable I will become with that part. Still thinking I will add a  steering wheel and throttle control like a standard boat. The servos are pretty smooth.  The question is are they reliable now? I will put some hours on the boat before I make any changes like this. The joystick is not a deal breaker for me though.

So, move the gas tank,  get rid of the governor, add trim tabs, and go. Those 3 changes should get anyone moving and happy with the boat.  It will be faster than any previous model with these changes.

Keep it stock, and prepare to be disappointed!  Cheers!
Title: Re: 2.0 Review
Post by: Larry on July 19, 2019, 07:04:43 AM
Great review Troy...Would really like to see some pictures and video of it on the water.
Title: Re: 2.0 Review
Post by: bizler on July 19, 2019, 11:14:53 AM
My compliments on your extensive and comprehensive review, Troy.  I’ll be keeping my 2010 I believe.  I am looking forward to getting some feedback from an owner in Canada who has purchased a reverse unit for a 2.0. 

Nice work, Troy. \./8
Title: Re: 2.0 Review
Post by: mokamo on July 19, 2019, 11:51:32 AM
Yessss. Thank you Sir for that very honest review.
I need to give my wife a NY vacation ticket for two so i can go to Mokai and test drive the boat.
I'm 155 lbs so not much adjustment needed.
I will only need to solve the engine compartment taking water and find a way to cool down the eng compartment and the engine itself.

will continue to wait for review from someone weighing close to 155. mAppreciate sharing this to all.
Title: Re: 2.0 Review
Post by: Painlesstom on July 19, 2019, 07:30:33 PM
Excellent review, Troy. Thanks for taking the time to share all of that information. Many will find it very helpful.

With regard to the wear ring, I've been informed the size has been changed from previous models and I won't be able to make one for this until I have a boat here.
Title: Re: 2.0 Review
Post by: Mokai Dreamin' on July 19, 2019, 07:36:44 PM
I've got a new one coming, so I can send you one, as well as measurements from the impeller and housing to create a model from. The pump hasn't changed, so weird the wear ring would.

Title: Re: 2.0 Review
Post by: Painlesstom on July 19, 2019, 08:32:51 PM
Would be cool to have the old ring for a preview, but I would need a boat in person or the wear ring housing before I could make one that I knew would fit. Remember Mokai does not like me, they hate everything I do to "their" boats and every new model they change as much as they can to make my products incompatible. I don't know if the wear ring really is a different size, but if it is it's going to be the OD only since nothing else has changed.
Title: Re: 2.0 Review
Post by: Mokai Dreamin' on July 19, 2019, 08:48:32 PM
Okay Tom. Not sure how a pair of calipers is going to lie about diameter, but if you want to wait until you actually get a boat on hand I understand. I could always purchase one too,  and let you know if it fits. It would pretty obvious if it's too tight or too loose, hits the impeller, etc., but your call. I'll respect your decision either way.

Title: Re: 2.0 Review
Post by: waverunner on July 19, 2019, 09:51:57 PM
Very informative review. Thank you for taking the time and effort necessary to inform us all. We appreciate it.
Title: Re: 2.0 Review
Post by: Painlesstom on July 19, 2019, 10:58:04 PM
Okay Tom. Not sure how a pair of calipers is going to lie about diameter, but if you want to wait until you actually get a boat on hand I understand. I could always purchase one too,  and let you know if it fits. It would pretty obvious if it's too tight or too loose, hits the impeller, etc., but your call. I'll respect your decision either way.


A caliper measurement will tell me if it's in the ballpark, but using measurements from your caliper and making a part based on those with my caliper, isn't going to be a guaranteed fit. And the fit has to be very precise. The instruments we are measuring with are not accurate enough to accomplish this. The OD of my wear ring is 4.414" and the depth of the wear ring housing should be 1.040". See what you get, will definitely be able to tell if it's close or not then we can go from there.
Title: Re: 2.0 Review
Post by: Mokai Dreamin' on July 19, 2019, 11:39:30 PM
I averaged 5 readings and came up with 4.536 for the diameter. The ring itself is .850 high/deep, and the housing depth is 1.060 from where the ring sits to the outer flange. I can also pull this ring out by hand, and don't think that's the norm with the plastic rings. I recall they had a special tool, and you had to hammer them out. Not with this one.  Depth seems close, but you're right about the outside diameter. We've got almost an 1/8" there (.122) difference. Yours would just spin in the housing, assuming are tools are close in precision.

Title: Re: 2.0 Review
Post by: Painlesstom on July 19, 2019, 11:48:01 PM
Yup, that's what I thought. Our calipers wouldn't be more than .005-.020 off from each other so .122 is substantially differently enough to validate the claim of a size change. No surprise. Sounds like they have been copying my design in the ring slipping in the housing by hand, but they should have made it thicker than the depth of the housing... Now the ring will just spin in the housing with nothing to lock it in place. My ring is 1.049 for the 1.040 wear ring housing depth on the old subaru and ES-kape models. That ensures the pump bottoms out on the wear ring and the clamp draws the pump to the housing, locking the wear ring in place.
Title: Re: 2.0 Review
Post by: Mokai Dreamin' on July 20, 2019, 01:07:09 AM
If your wear ring is 1.049 deep or high, then there is a huge difference between what you make and what they have here. This wear ring is only .85 deep or high.

Let me attach a photo to make sure we are on the same page. This ring seems totally different than what you are describing.

Title: Re: 2.0 Review
Post by: Mokai Dreamin' on July 20, 2019, 01:39:40 AM
Great review Troy...Would really like to see some pictures and video of it on the water.
I don't do too much with video unfortunately as that's an entirely separate skill set. I do have the programs, but have yet to take the time to really learn how to use them.

I think we are all pretty spoiled (and blessed) with Tom's great ability to not only solve problems and manufacture parts, but then backs them up with great videos on how he did it, and see the finished product in use. It's a real treat, and I know sometimes I just spend a few hours reading old post, and watching videos.

For the rest of us mere mortals you'll just have to settle for good old fashion text, and a description. If there's anything in particular you want to see a photograph of, just let me know and I can do that. I don't have any special set up for camera gear on the boat, so would need about four hands to hold up my smart phone, and camera, and show speeds, and how the boat handles from different angles, etc. I think in some cases Tom has two cameras going, so it's not as easy as it looks. All that footage then needs to get edited, he overlays sounds tracks, etc. I've seen other instances where he sets his camera up on shore, and drives by, and I'd be afraid somebody would walk off with my camera if I did that here.
Title: Re: 2.0 Review
Post by: Mokai Dreamin' on July 20, 2019, 01:19:39 PM
Just wanted to add a couple more things to the review. One was the noise level. I would put this engine on par with the Subaru after Tom's muffler modification. It is much quieter than any stock engine I've used in the past.

The second thing I'd like to add was a post from hillbilly he posted a long time ago that applies to this boat .

"Very interested in this discussion, as I have seen what can be done by both weight shifting and add ons.  The boat changes its attitude to the water with speed and power.  Hull and power work together to a certain point, but when the nose goes too high the butt acts as a water plow and slows the rig down. Increasing power just sucks the butt down further and motor power and hull are working against each other.

This is exactly what happens in the 2.0 --My comment.

Shifting weight forward, as Tom has done, is the easiest, fastest, cheapest way to address.  We all know that at full throttle, sliding as far forward in the cockpit will add a full mph and allow us to run in shallower water.  Moving the c.o.g. forward just makes sense, allowing us to efficiently use more power.  But it doesn't change with speed and power application.

I've seen the effects of an ingenious "whale tail" addition to the boats when visiting two great guys in Alaska.  Both were at least 250#and used powerful GX200 motors.  It diverted water to provide up force to the stern at speed, which worked well for them.  When I (175#)drove the boat, at a certain throttle and speed the rear would lift out of the water and instant cavitation.

A hydro wing attached to the side of the boat certainly makes sense to me.  Both the angle and foil shape can provide lift and would increase with water speed.  Cavitation could be avoided by placing the wing at correct water depth, with foil out of the water when boat reaches the correct angle of attack. My bet is the wing could be relatively small, especially when combined with Tom's weight shift.  A small vertical addition to the end of the wing could help control boat spin while drifting downstream

Looking forward to future on this front.  More minds and more hands have brought a lot of progress on this forum. Thanks, guys."

I believe what hillbilly was talking about here was essentially an extended ride plate that may work on this boat. The other thing not mentioned would be to angle the jet down, which may work similar to a traditional prop for trimming the boat. The new two-piece pump design may allow for a shim or wedge and would be an easy CNC project, even if done with something like Star board, although aluminum would be ideal. Not sure if this would work or not, but in theory it seems like directing more water down would push the nose down, and that would help with forward propulsion in the 2.0.

It's also possible the fuel tank does not need to move all the way to the front, but rather just enough to offset the center of gravity. I recall people moving things as little as 4 inches that made a big difference. As more time goes on I'm sure others will play around with this. For now I'm just leaving my tank up front, but you do need to build a platform to keep it level or you will run out of gas prematurely.

With the gear system, if a person could find a 40 pound engine with high horsepower and torque, it would be an ideal match for this boat. Unfortunately I don't think there's anything stock that would fit the bill. There are certainly racing engines out there that would qualify though, and the potential for some appreciable speed gains is here.

2nd, Even changing one of the gears by a quarter inch diameter, would add 300 to 400 RPMs to the speed, but you need torque and HP to back it up.

Food for thought. Enjoy!
Title: Re: 2.0 Review
Post by: Mokai Dreamin' on July 22, 2019, 04:00:37 PM
A few more things to add to the review:

I originally said that the harmony kayak console would not fit the 2.0, but thinking about that it seemed kind of crazy that Mokai would purposely make a new mold just to increase the cockpit by a few inches. A new mold would be expensive. So, I took the bolts out of the harmony kayak console and slid it in from the bow towards the Stern, and with a little persuasion, it fits!

I also mentioned there is a handle attached to the cockpit front, and looking at some old photographs it appears it was there on the version 1 as well. The new handle is a bit beefier however, but apparently is not brand-new ideal at least. This is where Mokai wants for you to tie the boat down btw. Handle at the very front of the bow is now webbing, with a rubber grip.

I also spoke with Rick this morning from Mokai. Rick did most of the testing for the new model. He even went so far as to put lead weights in the back of the boat to simulate different weigh loads as Rick is about 150 pounds. He consistently got over 20 mph. Apparently some servos were not programmed properly, and the boat was not reaching full throttle. So they are in the process of reprogramming all of the new ones.

There were enough complaints about water coming up over the back that they have decided to go back to a one-piece lid with a better cold air intake. Apparently the current design had issues with this. Rick said it's quite stylish fwiw!

Throttle servo is now not only more robust, but waterproof. They admitted there was a little quality control issue with the electronics and advised me to check my terminal block in the joystick box. Sure enough a couple of them were a little bit loose. I also thought originally there was no O-ring, but there is in fact an O-ring on the side cover. Extremely precise fit, and no way water is getting in there.

I chatted with Tom a little bit about the overdrive box. I was thinking that since there is now a gear ratio there, that you could spin the impeller faster than the engine. While this is correct to a degree, you can quickly overtax the engine by trying to push that too much. Seems like somewhere around 4300 rpm's is maxed out in the 2.0. Mokai played around with lots of different ratios btw during testing, according to Rick.

I can also say that while this boat may start out at about 3750/3780  (4546 impeller speed) it quickly drops down to about 3520 after a few miles. That puts the RPMs at 4224. All else being equal, the ES-Kape 1 modified with EX-17 head, watercooled, etc. is actually capable of greater speed as it's 30+ pounds lighter. The 4200 in the version 2 is probably sustainable as well without modifications, so  may end up being a little cheaper in terms of total price, but  you do give up storage to a degree as it's already maxed out for weight.
If Tom can cool, and keep the 2.0 cool, it should outperform the version 1, but that's a bit "if" right now.

This boat is also never going to be as functional as earlier versions due to the extra weight.
My decision to purchase was largely due to availability and  the need for greater speed. Earlier models are probably still a  better value  if you can find em and wiling to upgrade.  For somebody who just wants to buy and go , and  is less concerned with getting into the shallows, etc. I think this boat is going to be fine.

The electronics are still better on the 2.0 if you plan to keep em.

George  ( hillbilly)  ask to see some images of the pump and the clearance underneath , so here you go George. 

 I hit the bottom of the river yesterday ,  which had a lot of small pebbles. I  hit pretty hard too, so  took a couple photos of the underside to see where the boat hit.  I should be seeing something on the plastic nozzle or pump, but  I think there's actually more around the grate. Right now water is exceptionally low in my area. A few feet to the right of where I hit bottom and it was 18 inches. Know your river! 


Title: Re: 2.0 Review
Post by: Hillbilly on July 23, 2019, 10:31:32 AM
Thanks, Troy

Pictures very helpful.  Looking forward to following your story with this boat.  I'll bet your initial review is the best one written on the 2.0.
Title: Re: 2.0 Review
Post by: Mokai Dreamin' on August 03, 2019, 02:46:12 PM
Some additional specs for those of interest:

I just pulled the engine out of the boat this morning.

Weight of engine including clutch and gas line is 66.8 pounds.

Gas tank with a bit over 2 gallons, is weighing 21.2 lbs.