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Author Topic: ES Conversion  (Read 19596 times)

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Offline Hillbilly

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Re: ES Conversion
« Reply #15 on: May 23, 2013, 08:54:17 AM »
Never did a side by side comparison.  My experience is more random.  I've been thinking about it though.  Have a new ES EX 21 and a new minimally worked EX 17 head.  I want to try it side by side with the KX sometime this summer.  Have so many things on my plate this summer that I don't know when I'll get to it.  I really like the performance of the higher compression head on the EX 21.  Starting is no problem, although I have ES.  I'm building a manual start EX 21 for a friend with the 17 head and will get feedback on ease of pull starting.  Again not sure when.
My gut says that the EX 21 with 17 head, Tom's muffler, and proper carb jetting would be a great upgrade.  Bet that Tom will have a 17 head on his soon and we will have the real scoop.

Offline Odie

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Re: ES Conversion
« Reply #16 on: May 23, 2013, 05:19:27 PM »
Roger that Hillbilly.  Didn't intend to redirect the thread onto RS, Tom.  Sorry 'bout that..

Anybody out there purchased a complete KX head (all of it: valves, springs, rockers too) from our friends Down Under)? Cost + Shipping would be a nice quote...

Speaking from a little experience here, getting an EBay 17 head and dropping it on a 21 block sounds cheap and easy.  It was @ 4 years ago.  (the cheap part).  Wasn't so easy either. Not like a  GX... but maybe parts from New Zealand could be if the friends down under remember us?

And then there's the carb tune thing. Heck, what's the whole cost of a KX shipped US run these days?

Speaking once again from little experience, I'd take a new KX over a modded EX any day if I had my druthers and the cost was reasonable.  No testimony here, but I'd swear, and most days I do, that the one KX I own is about as smooth running a small engine I've come across (4 stroke). Out of the box. Maybe I'm lucky...

Offline Painlesstom

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Re: ES Conversion
« Reply #17 on: May 23, 2013, 06:34:16 PM »
One day I'll sit in a boat with a KX and it will make me go shopping.. One day. I'm so happy with the EX motor right now that I don't want to dig into it. Cold air setup will be tackled soon though.

I think there is enough interest, and content to discuss, to start a KX topic. Would be nice to have one place to find all info KX related in one spot anyhow.  ;D
Tom

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Offline Californiamokai

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Re: ES Conversion
« Reply #18 on: May 26, 2013, 07:45:33 PM »
Question on the electrical connection on the engine side shown on prior post this thread. Are those weatherproof quick disconnect molex connectors and where sourced from?

Secondly, did you wire the two black wires from the starter button directly to the relocated key switch on the hull throttle side?

Thx, John
« Last Edit: May 26, 2013, 07:53:56 PM by Californiamokai »

Offline Painlesstom

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Re: ES Conversion
« Reply #19 on: May 26, 2013, 11:07:48 PM »
The connector I used for the harness was a 8 pin waterproof Deutsche connector, the battery cable connector is made by MSD. All terminals were soldered, not crimped.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Deutsch-DT-8-Pin-Connector-Kit-14-16-GA-Nickel-Contacts-/221135535502?pt=Race_Car_Parts&hash=item337cb47d8e&vxp=mtr

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&vxp=mtr&item=111069594452

The push button start switch is wired through a standard automotive relay, when pushed it completes the ground circuit that energizes the relay, which in turn completes the circuit to the starter solenoid.
Tom

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Offline Wolverinebait

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Re: ES Conversion
« Reply #20 on: June 10, 2013, 08:57:08 AM »
Well, I finally got my Mokai out of winter storage and took it out on a few voyages, but still lots of ice to deal with, as many of the lakes around here are still frozen, even in June.  But, I also bought an ES EX21, and am going to install ES, but when I looked at this new engine, I can see that it has a voltage regulator wired in, but no rectifier.   So, I'm wondering what you guys have done about that, since you can't dump AC current into a DC battery?   I bought this engine on ebay, so probably the same one some of you have bought as well.  Here's what the wiring looks like under the keyed box as it comes from the factory.   Thanks for any input.


Offline Hillbilly

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Re: ES Conversion
« Reply #21 on: June 10, 2013, 09:05:10 AM »
You have the 15 watt charging system.  Rectifier is the little black box with light and dark blue wires coming from the charging coil behind the flywheel.

Offline Painlesstom

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Re: ES Conversion
« Reply #22 on: June 10, 2013, 09:17:31 AM »
That is the same motor I got to upgrade my 2011 to ES. Just extend the wires through a connector to the cockpit, and hook the battery to the solenoid and block. Will charge just fine, recommend soldering all connections though since crimps WILL fail eventually. Most electrical system problems can be tracked back to a bad connection, soldering eliminates that possibility.
Tom

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Offline Wolverinebait

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Re: ES Conversion
« Reply #23 on: June 10, 2013, 09:35:41 AM »
You have the 15 watt charging system.  Rectifier is the little black box with light and dark blue wires coming from the charging coil behind the flywheel.

Thanks for the fast reply.   So, this is both a voltage regulator & a rectifier?   I've never seen a rectifier that didn't have cooling fins, but I guess 15 watts isn't very much current.  Thanks again for the help.  Dave

Offline Painlesstom

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Re: ES Conversion
« Reply #24 on: June 10, 2013, 09:57:20 AM »
The metal mounting tab is the heat sink, and when bolted to the housing the housing dissipates the heat. You are right, 15 watts isn't much, small scale parts for a small scale charging system. 
Tom

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Offline Wolverinebait

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Re: ES Conversion
« Reply #25 on: June 10, 2013, 10:02:24 AM »
The metal mounting tab is the heat sink, and when bolted to the housing the housing dissipates the heat. You are right, 15 watts isn't much, small scale parts for a small scale charging system.

Ok, great,..  that eliminates one less thing to deal with,..  thanks!

Offline BarnieM

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Re: ES Conversion
« Reply #26 on: June 11, 2013, 10:35:50 AM »
That is the same motor I got to upgrade my 2011 to ES. Just extend the wires through a connector to the cockpit, and hook the battery to the solenoid and block. Will charge just fine, recommend soldering all connections though since crimps WILL fail eventually. Most electrical system problems can be tracked back to a bad connection, soldering eliminates that possibility.
Tom, when you say you hooked up the battery cable to the solenoid and the ground to the block.....the block here is nothing but aluminum. Just where did you hook up...........Barnie

Offline Painlesstom

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Re: ES Conversion
« Reply #27 on: June 11, 2013, 11:27:52 AM »
The block is aluminum with many bolts, take a bolt out and use it to connect the ground cable. I used the crankcase cover bolt by the oil fill plug. ;)
Tom

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Offline Californiamokai

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Re: ES Conversion
« Reply #28 on: June 23, 2013, 11:50:41 AM »
There are 3 or 4 wires connected to ground on the new RS engine block (not referring to battery cable) and making the relocation of the keyed switch etc to the steering area.  My question is it necessary to run the long leads back to the engine block for these sparate grounds or can one lead "share" a common lead?  Feedback appreciated. Thx, John

Offline bravodelta

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Re: ES Conversion
« Reply #29 on: June 23, 2013, 03:54:04 PM »
I'm sure you can share one wire going to the engine block. Perhaps the next size larger wire going from the block to where the other 3 wires are and connect all of them there. I did that with my StructureScan and Fishfinder/GPS from the cockpit to the engine block.
Bravodelta